If there is one specialty that truly represents the soul of the Bormida Valley, it is Lisoni. These potato flatbreads, which resemble gnocchi but have a history and tradition all their own, are one of those dishes that tell more than just flavor: they tell of ties to the land, to peasant culture, and to the conviviality that only festivals can provide.
I had the good fortune to taste them during the Sagra dell’Agricoltura in Calizzano, an event that brings together the Pro Loco of Calizzano and the Pro Loco of Bardineto to offer a typical Lisoni dinner. It was an unforgettable experience, not only for the delicious food, but also for the warm and genuine atmosphere, which makes you feel part of a community even if you are just a visitor.
The Traditional Condiments of Lysons
The most fascinating part of Lisoni is that, depending on where you are in the Bormida Valley, they can be seasoned in different ways, reflecting local traditions and the variety of tastes this land has to offer.
- Crushed garlic from the Rio Nero: In some areas, as explained to me at the tail end of the festival, Lisoni are seasoned in a very simple but tasty way with crushed garlic. This seasoning, which is particularly common along the Rio Nero, enhances the flavor of the potatoes with a pungent freshness, perfect for those who like bold flavors.
- Parsley, cream and garlic in Mereta: Further north, toward Mereta, the seasoning becomes richer, with the addition of cream, which makes the Lisoni creamy and enveloping. Garlic and parsley round out the dish, giving it the perfect balance of freshness and sweetness.
- Bagna Cauda in Calizzano: Closer to Calizzano, Lisoni are served in an even more intense version, dressed with bagna cauda, a sauce made with garlic, anchovies and olive oil. It is a condiment that has its roots in the Piedmontese tradition, but here, in the hills between Liguria and Piedmont, it becomes an integral part of this specialty, giving it a strong, rustic character.
The Festival of the Lisoni in Murialdo
Another not-to-be-missed opportunity to taste Lisoni is the Sagra dei Lisoni held every year on August 16 in Murialdo, during the feast of San Rocco. Here, Lisoni are prepared following the local recipe, with oil, parsley and parmesan cheese, and cooked on a hot griddle. Cooking on the griddle gives them a unique crunchiness, while the simple but flavorful seasoning brings out the genuine flavor of the potatoes.
At the festival, Lisoni are served hot, fresh off the griddle, accompanied by a glass of local wine and the company of people who share a passion for good food. It is a celebration of the area and its cuisine, attracting both locals and visitors eager to discover the authentic flavors of the Bormida Valley.
I Lisoni: potato scones, a product to be enhanced
But Lisoni are not just a festival dish: they are a true expression of the gastronomic culture of the Bormida Valley. Potatoes, the main ingredient in this dish, are a high-quality product grown in the surrounding countryside, where the soil and climate favor tasty and nutritious production. The Lisoni recipe is based on peasant tradition, which knew how to make the most of the few ingredients available to create hearty and tasty dishes.
Today, Lisoni are a symbol of identity for many municipalities in the area. Their preparation has remained faithful to tradition, and although the seasonings may vary, the heart of the dish-the potato dough-remains the same. The enhancement of this local product is essential to keep alive a tradition that, over the centuries, has been able to adapt but never lose its authenticity.
To each village, a different tradition
What I also love about Lisoni is that they represent a dish of sharing. During the festival in Calizzano, while waiting in line, I noticed how much this dish manages to bring people together. Not only because it is cooked and served in large quantities to be shared with everyone, but also because it tells a common story of territories, family, and ties to the land.
As I tasted the Lisoni, I thought about how important it is to support these local traditions, not only for their cultural value, but also for the pleasure they give. This is what struck me the most: food, in the Bormida Valley, is more than just nourishment, it is a way to celebrate life and territory.
Lisoni are much more than a simple potato flatbread: they are a symbol of the Bormida Valley, a dish that encapsulates the history, culture and taste of a land that has always known how to get the best out of its products. Whether seasoned with garlic, cream, parsley or bagna cauda, Lisoni carry the flavor of tradition, territory and conviviality.
If you have the opportunity to attend one of the festivals where they are prepared, do not miss it. Tasting Lisoni in this setting, perhaps accompanied by a glass of local wine, is an experience that will make you appreciate the simple but rich cuisine of the Bormida Valley even more.
Lisoni Events and Festivals
- Sagra dell’Agricoltura in Calizzano: Traditional August event where the Pro Loco of Calizzano and Bardineto collaborate to offer a dinner of Lisoni, seasoned according to different local traditions.
- Sagra dei Lisoni in Murialdo (Aug. 16): Celebration of the typical dish, prepared on the griddle and seasoned with oil, parsley and Parmesan cheese, on the occasion of the feast of San Rocco.
